Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Har Hamoreh

A prelimninary: anyone interested in taking a Tanach tiyul should contact Ezra Rosenfeld at ezrarosenfeld@bezeqint.net. He runs great tiyulim all the time, and I've really enjoyed the four that I've gone on so far.

A few months ago, I was on one of my Tanach Tours in the Galil (Galilee.) We were learning the story of Gidon (Gideon) the Shofet. A Shofet in modern Hebrew is a Judge, but in Tanachic Hebrew it meant more an inspired leader. Every few generations, the Jews would fall into idolatry and their commitment to God would lapse.
"And I have also said, 'I will not drive them out before you; they will
become traps for you, and their gods will become snares to you." Judges
2:3.

God would then remove his protection from the Jews, and they would fall under the oppressive domination of one of the surrounding peoples. The Jewish people, now afflicted, would repent and cry out to God for mercy. God would then send a Shofet to inspire the people and rally them against the enemy, leading to the enemy's defeat. The Jews, now free, would then lapse again into sin. Repeat ad infinitum. The period of the Shoftim lasted for 400 years, from the end of the Exodus from Egypt as Joshua crossed over the Jordan into Eretz Israel in the year 2488 (aka 1272 BCE) until the rise of King Shaul (Saul) in the year (879 BCE.)

For his own epic struggle against the invaders from Midian (in present day Saudi Arabia,) Gidon gathered his forces at Ein Harod (the spring of Harod.) Although thirty two thousand assembled for battle, Gideon began to whittle down his forces. First, he instructed those frightened of battle to go home, and twenty two thousand left. Next, he ordered them to drink from the spring. Those who knelt to drink were sent home, and those who lapped up water were kept. Our sages tell us that those who got on their knees indicated through their action that they were used to worshipping idols. By this time, he had only 300, but needless to say, with divine assistance, they smashed the Midianite forces gathered to the north on Mount Moreh. Or, more accurately, they surrounded them and blew shofars and smashed jugs, which caused such confusion in the Midianite ranks that they began slaughtering one another. Halleluyah.

Anyway, one of the stops on the Tanach tour was to see Har Hamoreah, where the Midianites had gathered. Today it's home to a national forest.


Looking south towards Emek Yizrael (The Jezreel Valley.)



Yours truly.
The city of Afula through the trees.
The big hill there is Har Tavor (Mount Tabor,) where, a generation later, Devorah (Deborah) the prophetess gathered her forces for the final battle against the Canaanites.
The green fields of the Yizrael.

After defeating the Midianites, Gidon was offered national leadership, but instead he returned to his home village of Ofra, which is nearer the coast and further south. There he built a massive monument in honor of God for having saved the Jews yet again. But, of course, the people began to slip, and pretty soon the monument itself became a "snare" to the people, and they worshipped it as if it were an idol. It can be surprizing how much the Tanach mirrors modern life in many ways. The more tings change, the more they stay the same I suppose.

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Mosaic Hike: Starting in Qumron

Howdy! My deepest apologies for the berevity of blog posts over the past week, but sometimes life just gets the best of me. In this case, I have two project deadlines coming up, which really cramps my laid-back style. BUt, without further adu (or is it ado?) I attach photos of my recent hike with MOSAIC, an Anglophonic hiking group, to Qumron. You may remember I was at Qumron a couple of weeks ago on a Tanach tour, but this time, it was more of a sweaty, dirty hike.





The ruins.
One of the caves where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found.






I guess a refrectory is where you eat stuff.
What's left of the refrectory.



This is the aqueduct leading into town. Runoff water was only captured a couple of times per year, but the system was so efficient it could fill dozens of mikvahs and cisterns to last through the long summer months.




This is pretty clearly a mikvah due to the steps. Cisterns are basically just giant holes, and the bucket would be thrown down into the hole to retrieve water. You'll notice that there is one particularly wide step. In fact, there would typically be four normal steps and then one very wide one, in a repeating series. This was due to the gradually lowering water level. As the water level dropped over the summer, so the bather would have to walk down further and further to reach the water. These regularly-spaced extra-long steps provided a place where the bather could lay out and immerse completely, regardless of the water level.
Okay, NOW we can get started. To the left is the reconstructed aqueduct.
Hiking up the cliff, looking back at Qumron.
More to come!

Monday, March 10, 2008

And Now for Some Good News

While we're still recovering from the shock of last week's attacks, life must move forward. Just as at a wedding we smash the glass to remember that, even in our greatest moments of joy there is still an incompleteness to life without the Beit Hamikdash, so too in times of sadness we have to remember that Hashem is always with us, and we always have reason for simcha (joy)

So I'm pleased to announce the engagement of my good friend A. to his kallah, C!


There goes another one!

Yup, we go waaay back to the old country, A. and me, and I can't think of someone who deserves a simcha more.



They were actually introduced through one of our other students, Avi, who is the Kallah's brother-in-law.

Avi, A.'s new brother-in-law.

Meanwhile, most of the guys haven't seen real food in a while, so they stock up while it's available.




A. and brother, J. Some of you may remember my post on J's wedding.
Divrei Torah, speeches, congratulations, and eating continue. Meanwhile I practice my German on Lars.


Dancing about, tzitzit flying.


A big mazal tov! Until 120!

Friday, March 07, 2008

Attack on Merkaz HaRav

At noon today, I shut the book on my final Talmud lesson for the week left Machon Meir, my yeshiva, still mentally chewing on the Jewish legal problems in which I had been immersed all morning.  Each stream of contemporary Judaism, be it Hassidic, Litvak (Lithuanian,) Modern Orthodox, or, in my case, National Religious, has its own system of yeshivas, each yeshiva fulfilling a different role.  Machon Meir's role is to take in those with little or no Jewish education and start teaching from the beginning, to work with those from a secular background who want to enter into a serious Torah environment compatible with a strong commitment to living in the Land of Israel.  Most, like me, learn for the sheer spiritual uplift, and to fulfill the mitzvah (commandment) of Torah study.  Most of us will eventually leave the yeshiva, though never our commitment to learning, to follow our respective paths in life.  Some, like my cousin Rafi, will decide to follow through with more intensive learning and eventually obtain smicha, rabbinic ordination, for which they will go to Merkaz HaRav.  Merkaz Harav means literally, "Center of The Rabbi", "The Rabbi," having been the yeshiva's founder, Rabbi Avraham Yitzchak Hakohen Cook.  The first Chief Rabbi of Palestine, he was considered the forefather of the National Religious movement.  As I left Machon Meir and hung a left on Tzvi Yehuda street, I passed Merkaz Harav, the "Flagship of the National Religious Movement," just a block away, on my way to go about my errands for the day.

 

Spinning the radio dial, I hit the news as it listed the latest attacks; the daily rocket barrage on Sderot, attempted attacks on Jewish municipal workers in East Jerusalem, riots targeting Jewish motorists.  Yes, we know the Arabs want us dead.  That's why every Israeli has to spend three years in the army, and the next twenty in the reserves.  These individual acts of petty violence are the usual background noise to life in Israel, like the morning news' list of violent crimes and traffic fatalities the average American ingests with his oatmeal breakfast.  Eventually, it becomes white noise; but during the last few months, the noise here has grown louder.

 

Last week, the rocket barrage on Sderot was increased to such an unbearable level that aid organizations had to step in.  Residents had to stay indoors for days. A child had his legs blown off, and an adult student at a local college was killed.  The students of Machon Meir spent last Shabbat in Sderot to strengthen the community, which I regrettably, did not attend.  Unlike last year's uneventful visit, this year they were forced to spend most of the day taking shelter from the ceaseless rocket barrage.

 

This week, I went jogging in my usual spot, the promenade dividing East Jerusalem from the rest of the city, but this time it was spotted with border guards lining the entrances and exits.  Over the past few weeks I had seen the Arab teenagers gawking and glaring at me as I jogged past.  Over the last month or so they've gotten a more cocky, sometimes jogging alongside me for a while trying to stare me down, or wildly gesticulating, jumping on benches, chairs, and through the bushes.  I remember this sort of behavior from when I first landed in Israel during the summer of 2000, before the previous "Intifadah," or uprising against Jewish statehood.  Not a good sign. 

 

If this were in the states and an area I was used to visiting were to become dangerous, I would simply adjust my route.  But here, things are different.  Were I to stop jogging, I would be handing the enemy a private victory, even if only he and I know about it.  If Jews stop visiting the promenade, this area then becomes de-facto annexed to East Jerusalem.  It's part of what I think of as the, "Gradual Islamic Apartheid" system, in which, not through official law or legislation, but small acts of petty intimidation, a de-facto system develops whereby adherents of Islam are granted superior rights to others.  Israel already has two separate bus systems, one connecting Arab locales and one for all Israelis regardless of ethnicity.  Arabs use the Israeli bus service at their pleasure, but no Jew dares set foot on an Arab bus.  Arabs needn't pay for land, they simply start building.  The courts occasionally even rule against Arab land claims in East Jerusalem, but the police are too terrified to actually enter these neighborhoods to enforce evictions or demolition orders, and the government fears world condemnation.  Already over half of Israel's land reserves in the Galilee have been stolen.  Meanwhile, their Jewish neighbors a few blocks down the road pay full price.  Entire cities, like Acco, which were once considered "mixed" have now become Arab-only, enter at your own risk.

 

I asked one of my rabbis for advice about my jogging route.  On the one hand, one's life is his most precious asset, and there is a strong mitzvah to avoid unnecessary risk.  On the other hand, the mitzvah of Kibush Haaretz, conquering the land, often entails a degree of danger and sacrifice.

"Can you buy protection?" (a gun.)

"No, I've only been here a year and a half.  It takes another year and a half."
He gave me the address of a gun shop where I can buy mace.  Still, it's hard to see what mace, no matter how potent, will do against bullets.  In the end, I decided to modify my route slightly, keeping higher on the promenade, staying within view of the border guards and not taking the trail that leads through the trees.  And I left out the loop that runs around the United Nations building and out of sight of the main promenade, near the Arab settlement of Jabel Mukaber.

 

Finishing my modified jog, I got back to work crunching numbers on my computer.  Until the phone rang at about eight thirty. 

Major attack at Merkaz Harav.  Four dead.

A few minutes later, it was six.

Then eight. 

                                     

A member of the Islamic death cult had come from his home in Jabel Mukaber, walked into the yeshiva with an automatic rifle and unloaded into the high school children learning there that evening.  First comes the worry… do I know anyone learning there?  Rafi learns nearby. 

I dial.

He picks up. 

 

"Hello?"

Okay, heart rate may now slow down.

"You're not mixed up in this thing?"

"No."

"May their names be erased."

"Amen.  Bye."

  

I've been through this dozens of times.  Here I am, worried about my workload, my studies, the dating scene, and all the little inconsequential details of life, when something comes to drag me out of my own self absorption.  Most people have the usual reactions; shock, followed by anger that these creatures who steal our lives and waste their own have looted us of our most precious again. The anger will pass and the sadness will fade, and everyone will go back to their daily routines, minus the eight stolen souls and their families.  But I think it's important to hold some of the anger and sadness without allowing it to consume our lives.  I'll place mine well-sealed cardboard box and store it in a cool, dark place, somewhere in the attic of my mind.  It is important that we, as self-respecting people who place value on our own lives and those of our loved ones, focus on pragmatic methods for removing this savage presence from the holy land.  We will need the memory of such attacks as today's to internalize the justice of our existence when the rest of humanity condemns us for acting on our survival instinct.

 

Thursday, March 06, 2008

I Wanted to Post a Simcha

I had the photos all edited and lined up, but it's going to have to wait. I've just received word on an attack in Kiryat Moshe, at the Merkaz Harav Yeshivah. They're still counting the bodies. Everyone I know is safe. Can't say the same for the eight (so far) yeshivah students who were taken from us far before their time.



I'm pissed. More later.

Tuesday, March 04, 2008

More Golan Photos

On the way to and from the ski trip, I managed to snap a few shots from the bus window.



The foothills of Mount Hermon
More Hermon foothills.
Sunset over a melted lake.
Sunset over Gamla (the furthest peak before the valley.) This is called the Metzada of the north, where the Jews threw their bodies onto their Roman besiegers rather than be taken alive. Not exactly a pleasant historic memory.



A shot of Gamla taken earlier, during the day.
Madjal Shams, a Druze village on the road to Mount Hermon. The Druze in the Golan still consider themselves Syrian, this area having been captured from Syria in 1948, unlike the Druze of Israel, who consider themselves Israeli.
The mountains of the Northern Golan
Madjal Shams at sunset.
Mountains and lakes. Twilight in the Golan.


The northern Golan is probably the most serene area in all of Israel. The land is green and fertile, with striking views and calm weather. The region was once populated by half of the tribe of Menashe, and is where Yiftach Hashofet (a Judge, or leader of the Jewish people in the times of the Book of Judges,) made his home. Today, it is largely empty, home to only about 20,000 Jews and 20,000 Arabs. It seems all this land wants is for its children to come back, and it's my dream of some day building a home up here.

Sunday, March 02, 2008

NBN Ski Trip

Last week I got to enjoy Israel's frozen north on the Nefesh B'Nefesh Ski Trip. It's actually about a 3 hour drive from Jerusalem to Mount Hermon, so we had to get together and get moving at about 6 AM.


Just picking up our rental skis was a total madhouse.

Never having been skiing before, I always figured skis were just these things you strap onto your shoes and off you go, but it was a bit more complicated. You have to wear these big plastic boots to prevent ankle injury. The boots prevent you from moving your ankles, and force you to walk on your tip toes all day.

All set to go here.


The ski resort also has this sled ride. Next time I'll go for a ride.
Those who had been skiing before hit the slopes and disappeared for the day. The rest of us went to the "bunny slopes" to learn how to ski.
Ismail, our instructor, "You, eh... peoples are not like ze Israelis. You are not complaining!"

Taking our lessons.

Yours truly. I was the only sucker who showed up in Jeans. Hey, I didn't know what ski pants were.

We took a few shots on the small slopes, learned how to turn left, turn right, and stop. I was good at the turning, but not so good at the stopping, and crashed into some innocent bystanders. But after a while, I got bored with it. The bigger slopes looked like more fun, so we got on the lift.

People having fun on the big-kid slopes.

Waiting in line for the lift.


Aliza from NBN and I shared a lift up, but we got our skis tangled and ended up falling off before we reached a dangerous altitude. On our second try, we made it all the way up.

The top of the shortest lift. The hilltop in the background has some sort of army outpost on it.

Somehow, the way down looked a lot more perilous from the top.

The main problem was that I couldn't figure out how to stop. On the main slope, you only had about ten feet to stop until you went ploughing into the crowd waiting at the bottom. That, combined with the slippery, wet snow, led to a truly nerve wracking first-skiing experience.

After some experience, I learned that crashing into snow hurt less than crashing into people.


After a while, I mastered the controlled crash. I would just go faster and faster, and when I felt I was going faster than I could control, I would try to turn uphill slightly and end up with my face in the snow. I probably spend more time skiing in the slope than on the slope, but I had a good time.


Keren had some crash-related problems as well. But she seemed to pick it up a lot faster. As a matter of fact, everyone seemed to pick it up a lot faster.

This is what people who know what they're doing look like.

It was a pretty fun experience. I think if I had another day or two to practice, and perhaps went with someone who knew what they were doing, I would be able to get the hang of it and try some of the really huge slopes.

But for now, I'll stick to hiking.