Thursday, January 17, 2008

Negev Tour 7: Canyon Ada

And now for the penultimate post of Machon Meir's Chanukkah tiyul (hike) through the Negev.

Previous posts:
Negev Tour 1: Off to Tel Lachish
Negev Tour 2: From Lachish to Zin
Negev Tour 3: The Wilderness of Zin
Negev Tour 4: Mitzpeh Ramon
Negev Tour 5: Beginning Day 2
Negev Tour 6: Hiking the Ridgeline



Scenery.
Okay, stop for a little breather, and drink lots of water.
Eventually we began descending down Canyon Ada, which was so narrow that we could only fit one at a time. With hundreds of Yeshivah students, it took hours to pass through. So what do the guys do when they get bored?
They whipped out their instruments.
And guitars.
Yoav looks a little too happy.
Canyon Ada.
Finally I found out why it was taking so long to get everyone through the bottleneck.
Each hiker had to lower himself down by a rope ladder. This was my first hint that I needed to start thinking about going back on Weight Watchers.

For tomorrow's post, we go deep into the guts of Canyon Ada.

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Dual Loyalties?

I once met a German girl whose father had escaped from the Dachau concentration camp near the beginning of the Holocaust. Persevering against incredible odds, he worked his way south, through the warring European states, sneaking past borders, over mountains and through forests, until he finally made it to Eretz Yisrael. He survived the war here in the nascent state of Israel. Afterwards, he learned that much of his family hadn't been so lucky. Once the war was over and the dust had settled, he headed straight back to Germany, there to live the rest of his life. Why? "Well," she told me, "he just couldn't adjust to Israel."

My first time in Israel I tried to become as Israeli as I could, going to Ben Gurion University to learn in Hebrew only, find Israeli roommates, and pictured myself someday serving in the army. But after a year and a half of that, I realized that maybe that German girl's father was on to something. My own complaint wasn't the poverty of student life, the rudeness of the government clerks, the difficulty of learning a new language, the insane driving, the bizarre banking hours, or any number of other travails. I knew that it is extremely difficult to leave one's own birth land to try to meld with a new culture and expected some hardship. In preparation, I used to listen to local 60's music by the Dudaim, Parvarim, and various folk singers, songs about the land and people of Israel. It was the sound of a strong and healthy people having returned to their native land. But when I got here, all I found was Hebrew Reggae, Hebrew Punk, Hebrew Rock, with lots of pidgin English thrown in. Israel wasn't so much a Hebrew culture as a lack of culture, a sort of hollow, cheesy imitation of the culture I had just left. Instead of being told, "Way to go for coming to Israel," the locals would ask me, "How do I get a visa to get to America?" I felt as if I had been duped, like one of those American Communists who finally made it to the worker's paradise of the Soviet Union only to discover the misery of true communism.

Well, it wasn't that bad. I still held fast to the concept of ahavat yisrael, the command for every Jew to baselessly love his fellow Jew no matter the circumstances. And I think just getting to know the people of Be'er Sheva and their daily struggles led me to a greater empathy in general. Zionist dreams or not, most people's first priority is to put bread on the table.

I soon found the reservoir of spirit that seemed so lacking with the rest of Israel amongst the National Religious. I was already becoming religious when I first moved here back in 2000, and I already had strong Zionist leanings, but I soon realized that only a Zionism fueled by commitment to Torah would have the power to sustain me.

But unlike some in the National Religious, I don't see America as the enemy, as a sort of potential Nazi Germany. Certainly there is a concept that "It is a halachah that Esav hates Yaakov." I.e., anti-Semitism is an intrinsic property of human society, and America is no exception. However, America is the only country on Earth with a substantial Jewish population which has never had a pogrom. Unlike European countries, America does not place a stigma on being a Jew. The Jewish community of America is still in mortal peril, not from some axe-wielding villager fired up by the local priest to kill the Jews but from the villagers' sons and daughter who want to marry them. This largely self-inflicted wound is our responsibility to heal. Likewise, I hate many of America's policies towards Israel, like the massive aid subsidies to our hostile neighbors, and the calling for the formation of a Palestinian State, which would be a potentially lethal development. However, again, it's the Jews who lack the spirit of their own convictions. With Israel's own government calling for the creation of a Palestinian state, what else can one expect from America? You can't expect the American administration to be more Catholic than the pope, so to speak.

I now see myself as more of a Jew in Israel, rather than an Israeli, waiting and working for the day that rest of the Jewish nation will rise up to its mission. Meanwhile, culturally I'm as American as apple pie. There's no way out of that. And, since most of my taxes go to America, I figure I'm as entitled as anyone to vote.

So I did some research and figured out I can still register for the primaries. The Great State of California lets you register as a "Permanent Vote-By-Mail Voter." The deadline for registration in the February 5th primary is January 29th. I was worried about the mail, which can take a week or more to get from here to there. I would have to send in my request for vote-by-mail, then they would send me a ballot, then I would send it back. That's three trips, a minimum of three weeks, making it highly unlikely my vote would arrive in time. But this morning I called the voter registration office and found out that I can fax in my application, and my ballot, provided I mail in my registration later.

For more of the rules on absentee voting in your state, go to: Overseas Vote Foundation.

And for whom will I be voting? For that, you'll just have to stay tuned.

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

Negev Tour 6: Hiking the Ridgeline

Continued from:

Negev Tour 1: Off to Tel Lachish
Negev Tour 2: From Lachish to Zin
Negev Tour 3: The Wilderness of Zin
Negev Tour 4: Mitzpeh Ramon
Negev Tour 5: Beginning Day 2

Out of the bus, I start snapping pictures.



Strange ridges and mounds in the valley floor, evidence of past flash floods.

The string of hikers. We begin our ascent.
Looking back at the canyon walls.
Yours truly, with my MP3 player at the ready. Nothing like hiking to Enya.
And now, off to our next stop.

There were spectacular canyons carved by the seasonal flash floods.
And kilometer after kilometer of trail.

Before the hike they handed out these nifty Machon Meir T-shirts.


"Machon Meir: Love all of creation and bring it closer to Torah."


Of course, there's always time for dancing.
And guitaring.
Or resting our heads on water bottles.
Daniel was feeling a bit ill.

And so we continued on our way.

More desert scenery.
And more hiking.
Scenery.
Hiking.

More negev scenery pics tomorrow! Stay tuned!

Monday, January 14, 2008

Negev Tour 5: Beginning Day 2

Allright, so it's time for the second day of our little Negev adventure with Machon Meir voyage to the Negev. Continued from:

Negev Tour 1: Off to Tel Lachish
Negev Tour 2: From Lachish to Zin
Negev Tour 3: The Wilderness of Zin
Negev Tour 4: Mitzpeh Ramon

Having woken up first, I wandered over to the Beit Midrash and found I was one of the only people there. It would be a while before Shacharit started, so I wandered over to the edge of the Machtesh Ramon, the Ramon Crater.
The sun was still well below the horizon.
The word Ramon is actually a name given by the Bedouin, for a road which once passed through this region, built by the Romans. Roman = Ramon.

Around sunrise I headed back to shul for Shacharit (morning prayers.)

A. still waking up.

Then we all went back to the crater.
Yours truly on the lip of the Ramon Crater.
Its a VEEEERY long drop.


After a royal breakfast, we were on our way for another hike.

Ephraim Fiert, reading Birkat HaMazon (Grace after the meal.)


On the bus ride, looking back at the cliffs from inside the crater.


Ephraim Petroff (there sure are a lot of Ephraims on this trip) sings the Lion King theme song. He's going into the army in a week, so he'd better get used to hiking.
Looking across the sweeping landscapes in the crater. This is one of the few spots in Israel where there's a lotta lotta lotta land.

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Metzada with Nefesh B'Nefesh

Time for another tour! This time, it's off to Masada on a tour organized by Nefesh B'Nefesh.
Metzada, "The Fortress," was one of the many massive building projects initiated by King Herod, also known as "Herod the Great," although his memory is still reviled by most Jews. From an Edomite family (traditional enemies of the Jews,) his family had been forcibly converted to Judaism by the Hasmoneans (a dynasty of Jewish kings of Israel who took power after the Maccabean revolt until the Roman conquest.) He was appointed Tetrarch, a minor ruler, of the Galillee region by the Romans. Antigonus, the Hasmonean heir to the throne, attempted to overthrow Herod and establish his own kingdom, so Herod fled to Rome. And returned wit the Roman Legions, who subdued the province of Judea and ended the Hasmonean dynasty quite violently.
Driving to Metzada, we pass the shores of the Dead Sea.


Some guy selling lemonade at a checkpoint.


Looking through the date palms at the oasis of Ein Gedi towards Metzada.


Metzada rises over the wasteland.
And we're here!

Herod's opressive policies, including the execution of masses of both Jewish leaders and humble subjects, left him in constant fear of revolt. The paranoia that typically develops from megalomania didn't help much either. To keep himself safe and sound, he built Metzada, a desert fortress standing on a massive mesa with sheer cliffs all around. Here, he withstand a siege for years, giving plenty of time for reinforcements to arrive from Rome.


A little red line indicates the Snake Path up Metzada.


Some of the wildlife. An Ibex, or something like that. I don't know the fauna here.
I played with the contrast and color saturations in Paint Shop Pro and I think this version is much cooler.

The hike up the snake path is something of a "high profile" hike.

There is a cable car for those who don't want to hike all the way up.

It has a reputation of being quite strenuous, but really, I didn't find it so difficult. It took me about 45 minutes at an easy pace.


Gettin' high.

Metzada is considered a major landmark not because of Herod, a run-of-the-mill oppressor of Jews who was thrown on the ash heap of history five minutes after his death, but because of another drama that unfolded here.


Made it, no sweat!

Herod's design was, in fact, so defensible that it was used by the Jews during the revolt against the Romans. In 70 CE, as the Romans wiped out the last Jewish strongholds, a surviving band of 936 rebels fled to Metzada. The Romans laid siege.


A current resident of Metzada. In the background, the remains of one of several camps of the 10th Roman Legion which besieged the city.


A model of what Herod's palace looked like.

The remains of Herod's Palace today.

Looking out onto the Dead Sea from Metzada. These canals carry brine from the northern section of the Dead Sea to the southern, where the water is evaporated to extract valuable Potash by the Dead Sea Works.


Looking towards the enormous evaporation ponds.

Our tour guide's father was involved in local excavations. Often the local Bedouin would loot archaeological sites before they could be excavated. They would then sell the items they found back to collectors, or archaeologists. Her father was able to buy back some coins, most of which he gave to the Israel Antiquities Authority, per the law. But they let him keep a few.


A coin minted during the Bar Kochba Revolt.
Rebuilt storehouses.
Another local resident.

With the benefit of elevation, the Jewish rebels were able to prevent the entire Roman Legion from ascending the steep path. The Romans changed strategy and began building a ramp to penetrate the fortress' defenses.


The Roman ramp up the west side of Metzada.

Eventually, after three years of siege, the Romans reached the top. The night before the breach of the wall, the rebels knew the game was up. They drew lots and committed mass suicide rather than be taken prisoner. To this day, the site is seen as a symbol of resistance, and the last bastion of Jewish sovereignty in the Land of Israel until modern times.

Moshe Dayan, when he was Army Chief of Staff, understood the symbology of Metzada, and, upon their completion of basic training, he had IDF units to ascend the snake path by night to take the Oath of Alliegence, with soldiers swearing upon induction that, "Metzada shall not fall again!"


The flag on Metada.

Well, the hike down is going to be a cinch. After all, it's all downhill from here.


Now I have to go all that way back down.

Back at the bottom. Bet your {} I climbed that mountain!